1) Lay the hoops on the coach roof with the smaller forward hoop underneath. If the spray hood is already on the hoops, do the same with the windscreen underneath. Adjust the hoops so that the legs of the larger hoop align with the aft end of the coach roof where the bulkhead begins.
2) Position the Univer-sal Deck Fittings so that they align with the legs of the hoop. The back edge of the Universal fitting should be just in front of the turn of the bulkhead, which is as far aft as pos-sible. Mark their positions with a china graph pencil or similar. Make sure that they both are in parallel and do not “toe in”. Use four 1″ x 10 self-tapping screws. Use 4mm drill bit. Drill and screw not forgetting to put mastic on the screws. Fit the frame to the feet. Before drilling the second screw hole, make sure that the frame raises and descends without moving the Universal fitting. Drill second hole and fasten fitting firmly.
3) If the hood is not already on the frame. Mark the position of the frame clamps, which holds the smaller hoop, on the bar of the big hoop, with a waterproof pen. Roughly 100mm. Disconnect the two bars. Slide the (aft) longest bar through the aft sleeve in the hood. Make sure that the bar passes through the web- bing loops at each end of the sleeve.
4) Do the same with the forward bar, which is shorter, On the forward sleeve there are no loops to pass the bar through first. Re-connect the two bars to each other using the bar clamps. When they line up to the position that you have already marked with a pen. (100mm from the bottom of the larger hoop) Tighten up a little so that the do not slide down.
5) Raise the hood to the approximate position. You need someone else to hold it there, until you can fasten it forwards.
6) Position the forward bottom edge of the spraybood, so that it is centred. The curve should now pass on either side of the garage. Remove the pieces of wood adorning the waterbreaks located on the top of the coach roof. If you wish to reinstate these later, they must be planed flat along the forward edge, so as to lie flush with the ORP waterbreak. Their only use now is cosmetic.
7) With someone holding the aft hoop carefully pull the front tight and mark the position of the first studs on either side of the garage roof Mark through the hole in the “lift the dot” fastening, with a pencil. Drill using a 2mm bit. Fit stud and tighten. Do not over tighten. Press cover fastening on to stud.
8) Still holding the back , ensure that the canvas cover is still centred on the frame. Then pull back one sidescreen and mark where the webbing strap holding bar will be situated on the side of the coaming. The bar should lay ninety degrees to the lay of the webbing. It will not appear to be straight on the coaming. Do not pull the webbing too far aft as this will give a false position for the webbing bar. Just follow the line the webbing takes, downward and slightly afterward,
9) Drill and screw the plastic webbing bar to the coaning about 75mm below the corner of the side screen at right angles to the lay of the webbing. Use a 3.5mm drill bit and %” x 8 countersunk self-tapping screws. (2 for each webbing bar)
10) Repeat 8 & 9 for the other side of the spray hood.
11) Feed the webbing under the bars, back to the buckles and gently tension the hood.
12) Mark and fit the rest of the studs, in the same manner as the first two. Pull the sides of the spray hood down to remove any wrinkles. Use a 3.5mm bit.
13) Some wrinkles can be removed by moving the bar clamps on the main hoop up or down a little. The seams of the hood should follow the curves of the bars. Also further tensioning. will also help to remove small wrinkles, but ensure not to overstrain.
14) Removal of hood in winter will extend the life of the hood and especially the plastic windows. UV deteriorates the plastic. Washing with fresh water also helps.
When all is perfect, crimp or hammer a small dent half inch above the end plugs, at the end of each tube. This will stop them from being pulled out. You can also do this by pinching the ends in the jaws of a metal vice. Alternatively, a centre-punch may be used.
